Dampier Peninsula , Cape Leveque (June 19-22) and Gnylmarung (June 22-27)

The only place we have rung ahead to book was Kooljaman (Cape Leveque) Beach Shelters (and even then only  4 days before).  Everyone we have spoken to insists the beach shelters are a must stay and they did not disappoint.  Although I must say they are really just a glorified picnic shelter but with a view to die for and not even 50 metres from the beach.  They are a thatched shelter with a picnic table, a fresh water shower and tap and a fire pit and lots of shade.

 

On the way up the 99kms of sandy corrugations and pretty bad ones at that we dropped into the Beagle Bay Sacred Heart Church which is decorated with pearl and cowrie shells.  On arrival at Kooljaman and our shelter we managed to get ourselves bogged in the incredibly deep sand.  It’s hard going towing a 1.2 tonne trailer through very soft sand!  Ash was not happy, the boys were very excited and are still giving Ash grief for it!

 

The next morning we headed out to meet Bundy (a local aboriginal man) to do a spear making and cultural tour.  Well ,what an experience.  He showed us how to find fresh water only metres from the salt water, he told us his peoples stories and showed us 8000 year old fossilised aboriginal footprints from his ancestors.  The boys (woman are not allowed to make or use spears) were then taught and had to make their own spears by heating long wattle sticks over fire to straighten them.  I was allowed to remove the bark.  They then wound thick fishing line around a steel sharpened rod and attached it to the end of the sticks.  It was then time to go fishing out beyond the mangroves and from the rocks around Chile Creek.  Ash totally missed a big mud crab which Bundy expertly speared.  We saw many fish and a reef shark within arms reach but had no luck spearing anything.  An amazing day.  Back at camp we boiled up the mud crab – very sweet to eat.

 

We thought the ocean at Broome was warm well Cape Leveque was even more so – bliss.  Spent the next morning snorkelling, the boys practiced their spear skills and spent hours fishing on a mostly deserted beach.  Between them they caught a Queen fish, Longtoms and a Cobia and we all saw quite a few stingrays really close to shore.  Everyone told us it would be busy up here, we have not found that to be the case at all.

 

 

After saying our farewells to Will and Will, the 2 Tasmanians we have been fishing with since Broome we made our way down yet another sandy rutted road to Whalesong Café, famous for its mango smoothies and yep they were good.

 

If we thought Cape Leveque was stunning dare I say Gnylmarung is even better.   A campground run by a local aboriginal couple and a camp host from Victoria.  This place is postcard perfect.  A bay with white sands, crystal clear water and rocks for fishing off and all the local knowledge you could ask for.  Plus free firewood, washing machine, satellite phone and wifi.  And so few people, for most of the week there was us and one other couple who are friends of John, the camp host.  You could stay here for weeks.

 

 

A wonderful way to spend the week, morning beach walks admiring all the wonderful shells, swimming, snorkelling, fishing, campfires each night and just relaxing with a book under the shaded tree beside the beach.  Not to mention fresh fish for dinner most nights, sea turtles and stingrays and the occasional reef shark.  And Minty and Spotty Dog following you everywhere.

They grow their insects big up here!