Dampier Peninsula , Cape Leveque (June 19-22) and Gnylmarung (June 22-27)

The only place we have rung ahead to book was Kooljaman (Cape Leveque) Beach Shelters (and even then only  4 days before).  Everyone we have spoken to insists the beach shelters are a must stay and they did not disappoint.  Although I must say they are really just a glorified picnic shelter but with a view to die for and not even 50 metres from the beach.  They are a thatched shelter with a picnic table, a fresh water shower and tap and a fire pit and lots of shade.

 

On the way up the 99kms of sandy corrugations and pretty bad ones at that we dropped into the Beagle Bay Sacred Heart Church which is decorated with pearl and cowrie shells.  On arrival at Kooljaman and our shelter we managed to get ourselves bogged in the incredibly deep sand.  It’s hard going towing a 1.2 tonne trailer through very soft sand!  Ash was not happy, the boys were very excited and are still giving Ash grief for it!

 

The next morning we headed out to meet Bundy (a local aboriginal man) to do a spear making and cultural tour.  Well ,what an experience.  He showed us how to find fresh water only metres from the salt water, he told us his peoples stories and showed us 8000 year old fossilised aboriginal footprints from his ancestors.  The boys (woman are not allowed to make or use spears) were then taught and had to make their own spears by heating long wattle sticks over fire to straighten them.  I was allowed to remove the bark.  They then wound thick fishing line around a steel sharpened rod and attached it to the end of the sticks.  It was then time to go fishing out beyond the mangroves and from the rocks around Chile Creek.  Ash totally missed a big mud crab which Bundy expertly speared.  We saw many fish and a reef shark within arms reach but had no luck spearing anything.  An amazing day.  Back at camp we boiled up the mud crab – very sweet to eat.

 

We thought the ocean at Broome was warm well Cape Leveque was even more so – bliss.  Spent the next morning snorkelling, the boys practiced their spear skills and spent hours fishing on a mostly deserted beach.  Between them they caught a Queen fish, Longtoms and a Cobia and we all saw quite a few stingrays really close to shore.  Everyone told us it would be busy up here, we have not found that to be the case at all.

 

 

After saying our farewells to Will and Will, the 2 Tasmanians we have been fishing with since Broome we made our way down yet another sandy rutted road to Whalesong Café, famous for its mango smoothies and yep they were good.

 

If we thought Cape Leveque was stunning dare I say Gnylmarung is even better.   A campground run by a local aboriginal couple and a camp host from Victoria.  This place is postcard perfect.  A bay with white sands, crystal clear water and rocks for fishing off and all the local knowledge you could ask for.  Plus free firewood, washing machine, satellite phone and wifi.  And so few people, for most of the week there was us and one other couple who are friends of John, the camp host.  You could stay here for weeks.

 

 

A wonderful way to spend the week, morning beach walks admiring all the wonderful shells, swimming, snorkelling, fishing, campfires each night and just relaxing with a book under the shaded tree beside the beach.  Not to mention fresh fish for dinner most nights, sea turtles and stingrays and the occasional reef shark.  And Minty and Spotty Dog following you everywhere.

They grow their insects big up here!

 

Broome (June 14-19)

A bit of a shock to the system, coming into a town, having to remember which side of the road to drive on after weaving our way between corrugations for so long and to drive the speed limits.  100km seemed like we were flying on the smooth roads.  The temptation of internet has long since passed so it was a rude awakening having our phones beeping at us.

We were told we would have so much trouble getting accommodation in Broome but the first phone call we made from Derby found us a campsite at Cable Beach Caravan Park.

Spent the first couple of days in Broome gorging on fresh fruit and vegies and catching up on washing, restocking the first aid kit, shopping for this and that and getting the power steering reservoir replaced.  Found one for $55 from the wreckers as we just couldn’t fatham paying the $500 for a new one from Toyota.

Spent an evening watching ‘That Sugar Film’ at the 90 year old open air cinema while eating souvlaki’s.  The chairs are all the old style deck chairs.  Quite an experience.

Ash decided Ota needed a wash and headed off to a carwash, I was afraid the car might fall apart if we washed away all the red dust, but she is sparkling again.

We spent lots of time swimming at Cable Beach, the water temperature is perfect.  How am I ever going to swim in Port Phillip Bay again!  The beach is dotted with umbrella’s for hire.  We didn’t realise you had to pay for them until we were nicely settled under one that someone had recently vacated.  $5 an hour.  Broome is certainly a tourist town.

We visited the fossilised dinosaur prints embedded in the rocks from long ago at Gantheaume Point and watched the spectacular sunset while exploring the many rockpools filled with colourful crabs, shells and coral.  You can’t visit Broome without doing a camel ride on the beach, which the boys enjoyed.

 

 

 

 

Ash and a couple of guys we met in the campground spent a day out on a fishing charter.  Apart from catching lots of fish (Spanish Mackeral, Blueline & Chinaman), they saw whales, dolphins, turtles, sharks (biting off their fish before they could land them) and sea snakes.  We now have a fridge full of fresh fish – yummy.

 

Bell Gorge, Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek and the end of the Gibb (June 11-14)

Only 140km (3 hours) drive to the spectacular Bell Gorge. 

Set up camp at Silent Grove – another busy campground.  Spent the afternoon baking chocolate cake and cookies in the fireplace and then Ash cooked another of his fantastic roast dinners. 

 

Next day we headed out early along the rocky 2km walk to the gorge.  Coen managed ok with his leg.  It is so unfair him not being able to swim though.  A truly spectacular gorge and waterfall.  As usual we spent the better part of the day swimming, relaxing and chatting to fellow travellers, watching people arrive, have a quick swim and leave soon after.  We are continually amazed at how little time people spend at these special places.

 

Cadell and Ash again found some very high rock ledges to jump off. 

If you swam 250 metres down the gorge through various pools and little waterfalls you came to an even bigger waterfall and enormous pool.  Unfortunately there was no way to the bottom of this one.  The Merten’s Water Monitors sunbaking on the rocks just watched as you floated by.

A Boy and his Lizard

 

Next stop a few days later was Windjana Gorge.  Wow, we thought Bell Gorge was busy!

A nice gorge but because of the lack of wet season rain it was very dusty and humid.  The water was murky but the crocs didn’t seem to mind – all 102, the boys counted, just lazing about in the mud. 

 

 

Decided to move on out the next morning, way too busy for us.  Stopped in at Tunnel Creek, a 750 metre pitch black tunnel filled with freshwater crocodiles.  We put on our head torches and headed in.  You usually have to wade through the pools but it was only shin deep on our 4 crossings and we only saw 3 crocs.  The others were probably lurking under the water watching us. 

Our Gibb River Road Adventure has come to an end.  We all feel rather sad.  What a wonderful and unique part of Australia.  The Gibb is roughly 700km long, however we managed to do over 2000km over 26 days with all the side trips.  Despite its ruggedness and often shocking roads, it would be a real shame if it was ever made and became more accessible as it would truly ruin the experience.

We made it!

 

Mornington Wilderness Camp (June 7 – 11)

From Charnley we headed into Mornington Wilderness Camp, also run by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy.  Before embarking down the 90km road you have to use their UHF radio on the side of the road to check for campsite availability.

 

Another lovely campground along the banks of the Annie Creek, the station is actually named after the Mornington Peninsula.  A man by the name of Bob Maxtead rode his horse from Mornington to here to go droving.  (Poor horse!) 

 

There are two main self-drive interpretative trails out to the Gorges here indicating places of interest and the AWC’s conservation efforts.  Sir John Gorge ends at a huge gorge which Ash and Cadell went and explored by foot while Coen and I sat in the shade of the big rocks reading.  Coen got most of the way down on the crutches and we piggy-backed him the rest of the way.  Afterwards we headed to Bluebush swimming hole to play on the rope swing.  Coen unfortunately had to sit and watch but was visited by a large Merten’s Water Monitor just ambling past him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent the next day canoeing the 1.9km up the Dimond Gorge, stopping at each of the sandy beaches.  Oh no our first cloudy day in 34 days!  The sun did come out later on.  Quite a bit harder paddling on the return journey as the wind had picked up.  Unfortunately we didn’t see any freshwater crocs or shy little wallabies.  We did however rescue a couple from the middle of the gorge who capsized their canoe and had some harsh words with each as to whose fault their misadventure was. Then a quick swim in Cadjeput Pool on our way back to camp.