Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Mt Barnett Station / Manning Gorge and Galvans Gorge (June 3 – 5)

Wow Mt Barnett Station had fresh fruit and vegetables and well stocked shelves and freezers.  Fresh strawberries and mandarines!  We just didn’t look at the prices.  By far the busiest campground, we were only metres away from our neighbours and so many caravans and generators.  Great swimming hole with a sandy beach right beside the camp though.


To begin the walk to Manning Gorge you have to go across the river in a little tinnie on a pulley system. 


 
A stunning deep pool and waterfall with lots of rocks to jump from.  Our favourite gorge so far.  It amazes us how little time most people spend at these places.  We have learnt to take lots of snacks and lunch and we spend hours, unlike the tour groups who are gone within 30 minutes (but we are not complaining).

 
 

 
Mt Barnett is the last fuel stop for us until we finish the Gibb River Road in Derby so Ash has carefully calculated kilometres and lets hope he has it right!

 Stopped in at Galvans Gorge before heading onto Charnley River Station.
 
 
 





 
 

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

Ellenbrae, Drysdale Station and Mitchell River National Park (27 May to 2 June)

A must do on the Gibb River Road is Ellenbrae Station for fresh scones with jam and cream.  A little green oasis with a shockingly rough 5km driveway.  But the scones were well worth it!


By far the busiest we have seen the Gibb River Road so far, fortunately most people are going in the opposite direction to us.  It astounds us how fast so many people drive, not slowing down to pass, taking up the whole road and coming around corners on the wrong side.  The road is variable, one minute it seems to be ok and then you have full on corrugations, dips, rocks.  Each time we have to slow down it takes ‘Ota’ quite a bit to pick up speed again.  Oh to have a turbo!

On reaching Drysdale Station we chose to camp down at the Bush Camp at Miners Pool ($10 a night), a beautiful shady camp with very few other campers and a lovely sandy beach beside the Drysdale river with a rope swing.  No sightings of any freshwater crocs, although the boys did have a whip snake swim past them in the river pool.  Lovely cool mornings here, very smoky though from all the burning off.




 
We are eating well mostly, although our enthusiasm for cooking does wane in the unrelenting heat.  Almond and buckwheat pancakes for breakfast (from my prepared supplies) and a sensational roast in the camp oven.


Ash spent a lot of time checking over the car and camper while at Drysdale, checking nuts and bolts, topping up this and that.  He discovered that the 7 point plug for the camper lights is no longer working and also found a leak in the power steering fluid reservoir, it appears we need a new reservoir, so headed back to the Homestead and bought more fluid.  Unfortunately they didn’t have the right sized plug.  We have been told by many that the road into Mitchell Plateau is the worst of any.  Most people take 2-3 hours to do the 76km from King Edward.  A lot of people leave their camper trailers at the King Edward River Camp (2 hours from Drysdale) and then just take the car and tents in.   But as we do not have tents we will be taking the camper with us. 

Friday morning we made an early getaway and reached the Mitchell River National Park turnoff by 8.30am.  Ash had assured us all that the King Edward river crossing would be very impressive and deep.  Not so!

20km down the incredibly rough road we stopped for one of our regular tyre and car checks (Ash – ‘you never can be too careful’) and to our dismay discovered we had blown the right rear shock absorber in the Toyota.  Oh no!  From all the horror stories we had heard we thought if something was going to go wrong it would be with the camper, not the trusty ‘Ota’.  We then travelled the rest of the 76km of bone jarringly horrendous windy road full of corrugations, ruts, rocks and dips at 20km/hour.  Five hours later we arrived hot and exhausted at Mitchell River NP.  Oh what to do now!  Well firstly eat and then find a nice cool river pool to swim in.
 

Next morning Ash found the incredibly helpful Ranger who allowed us to use his phone to organise new shocks to be flown in on the mail run aeroplane from Kununurra on Monday.  We are yet to find out how much that will cost us.  I could think of worse places to spend an extra day or so.  Ash spent the morning reading the Toyota Workshop Manual and now feels he is a confident bush mechanic. 

To take our mind off things we took a helicopter flight to the top of the Mitchell Falls.  Six minutes of flying for a mere $540 but well worth it.  We then spent the next 5 hours slowly meandering from pool to waterfall to pool to aboriginal rock art for the 4.3km back to camp.  The heat was stifling but the water was so refreshing, definitely our favourite hike so far.  Saw a couple of Merten’s Water Monitors (lizards), lots of fish and a Monjon (sort of a cross between a small rock wallaby and a possum).  Apparently the flow over the falls is already at the July/August levels because of the poor wet season and the same goes for the temperatures.  Averaging 36 degrees during the day, with 80-90% humidity and only cooling down to the high teens at night.

Look no doors
Mitchell Falls
 


Rainbow BeeEaters

Little Merten's Falls
 
Monjon


Spent the next couple of days just lazing about and swimming waiting for our car parts.  After driving the 16km out to the airport to collect our shocks, the Ranger gave Ash full use of his workshop and we are now back in business with lovely new rear shockers.

An early (6.30am) start, just in case of disaster, back to King Edward pool for a swim before heading back to Drysdale Station to catch up on washing and a much needed shower after 7 days without one and a couple of cold beers for Ash!  Only mishap was the left wing mirror falling out – wonderful stuff duct tape! 


Frill Neck Lizard

Cadell and Coen befriended a Cattle Egret at Drysdale Station which followed them around gobbling up the grasshoppers they disturbed in the grass.

A Boy and his Bird
 

 

Monday, 15 June 2015

El Questro to Home Valley Station (24-27 May)

Only 50km up the road from El Questro is Home Valley Station.  We had to do what we thought was going to be a large river crossing of the Pentecost.  To our dismay it was not so impressive.  Again the lack of a decent wet season. 


Most of the Stations have camping at their main Homestead area and then bush camping a few kilometres away.  We are camping down at the bush camp right beside the Pentecost River.  It is a tidal river and the extremes of low and high tide are amazing.  We had been here for two days before we saw Sedrick the Salty (3.5 metre crocodile), but he was a long way off luckily.

 

 
Drove 16km west up the Gibb River Road to do a walk to Bindoola Falls and Nyarli Lagoon, unfortunately there was no waterfall but a nice pool to swim in after scrambling down the huge sandstone slabs of layered rock.  Saw a fresh water croc floating around in the pool and a lot of fish. 


 
 
The boys have again tried to catch the all elusive barramundi with no luck.  And fortunately the croc hasn’t caught them.



Spoilt ourselves with a meal at the Restaurant, which was very nice (and very expensive). 

Moving on tomorrow towards Drysdale Station.

Kununurra to El Questro Station (May 19-24)


I’m sure those corrugations were worse coming out of the Bungle Bungles!  Headed to Kununurra for a night in a caravan park.  Wow it is hot up here – straight to the swimming pool.  Spent the afternoon doing loads of washing – it’s been a while.  Did the most expensive supermarket shop ever!  As well as a quick visit to the Toyota dealer to check out the clunk we acquired under the front end.  Something to do with the steering, all fixed and had the 260,000km service done on the car.  We have already done nearly 5000km.  We saw our first fresh water crocodiles in the shallows of the lagoon beside the caravan park.


 


Azure Kingfisher
We are officially on the Gibb River Road. 

 
We had been told of the private riverside campsites at El Questro, so rang from Kununurra and booked ourselves one.  We were a little disappointed to find the one we had been allocated had no shade whatsoever and that we couldn’t swim in the river as there had been a recent sighting of a saltwater croc just downriver. 

Up early to be at Zebedee Hot Springs by 7am to beat the rush.  By 8am it was overrun.  It is only open to the general public between 7am and 12pm, then the people staying in the expensive accommodation have the place to themselves.  El Questro is definitely a commercial venture.



Spent the hot afternoons swimming in the river pools by the Station, definitely no crocs.


El Questro Gorge was definitely a favourite, with a rocky walk to a gorgeous pool with a waterfall and an enormous rock blocking the gorge.  We stripped off to our bathers and waded across with our backpacks above our heads to clamber up the side of the rock to continue on.  The boys then spent some time jumping off the other side of the rock into the crystal clear pool below and again and again.  We then continued for another hour to climb, hop, jump and scramble our way over and around a boulder field to another even more amazing deep pool with a well positioned rock to sit under the waterfall for a nice massage.  Saw a couple of snakes.  We had been told that they were going into hibernation now as it is winter up here, but I think they have changed their minds as it is so hot!

 

 
The temperature most days lately has averaged 35 degrees, so it is fortunate that most of the walks are through shaded gorges.

The boys have had no luck with catching any fish from camp, where are all the barramundi?  We do however have a pair of White-breasted Sea Eagles nesting just opposite our camp over the river.  They are so large and graceful.

Spent a morning 4WDing to Branko’s Lookout and Explosion Gorge.  Such a shame we couldn’t swim because of the salty sighting.  Thank goodness for the waterholes by the Station.

 
 
Cadell's improvements to access the river from our campsite
Cadell and I spent another morning walking to Emma Gorge. (Coen was totally washed out from a fever and Ash’ knee is not doing so well after the recent rock scrambling).  Emma Gorge was a lot bigger and deeper and much much colder.  It also had a waterfall and hot springs trickling down the rock face.
 


Boab Tree
Had a magnificent beef stew cooked over the fire followed by chocolate bananas done in foil in the hot coals for dinner.  Tomorrow we head for Home Valley.